Ever the enthusiastic and slightly obsessive surfer, I was drawn to not one but two surf films this month.
Andy Irons: Kissed by God. Not just a surf documentary but a brilliantly fascinating and devastating exploration of bipolar disorder and the opioid crisis gripping modern America, as experienced through three-time World Champion pro surfer, the late Andy Irons. Some of surfing’s biggest names (including Andy’s long-time rival and nemesis, Kelly Slater), recounts Andy’s complex struggles (and those of his family and surrounding community) and the wasted life of one of the worlds most talented athletes. It is a tragic but important film that transcends surfing and lays bare some uncomfortable truths about mental illness and addiction.
Breath. A beautifully quiet and sometimes dark coming-of-age surf tale directed by Simon Baker (his debut) and based on Tim Winton’s novel. Baker himself takes the lead role as surfing guru Sando who befriends two young local boys and teaches them some metaphysical life lessons both in and out of the water. It is essentially a love story, but it’s the poetic, ocean cinematography by Rick Rifici that left me giddy with excitement and longing for my next ride.
Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! Deep Conditioning Hair Cap System – surf, sun and wetsuit wrangling has left my blonde tresses markedly distressed and in need of an innovative (and aggressive) hair care system. Step 1 – massage the deep conditioning mask for 30 seconds. Step 2 – cover with hair cap lined in tech-backed fabric implanted with nourishing essences and leave on for 15 minutes. It really works – just wash and style (or go, as the case may be).